The best of Krkonoše - allow a weekend or more!

So, Krkonoše (Giant Mountains) is highly visited area not just because our highest mountain (Sněžka at 1602 metres) is there. It is popular destination for winter sports as well as for all kinds of summer sports including hiking. Just with hiking, you could spend weeks there... especially when mushrooms and blueberries start to grow. But be aware of the fact you are in national parc and it is not allowed to go outside of official trails.

More about Krkonoše generally including many photos: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krkono%C5%A1e

I was there couple of times, climbed Sněžka in April when there was still snow and we sledged down on a slope... but the best visit was a 3 days hike which I am going to present you here as a suggestion for a long weekend. It all started with geocaching and perfectly planned multi-cache called "Krkonose Crossing" - http://coord.info/GC1KVVN - in English, too. It takes you to the main red trail across the ridge and most people finish in less than 2 days. However when you are already that far why not make it 3 or more days?

Start in Harrachov - it takes less than 3 hours to get there by bus (direct) from Prague. Or take a train to Tanvald and then change to local train to Harrachov - it's a unique and beautiful railway! (specific details at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cog_railway_Tanvald%E2%80%93Harrachov) 

There is quite a lot to do in Harrachov itself but if you want to finish at Luční bouda this day you should hurry up:) Head to Mumlavský vodopád (waterfall) following blue sign. Continue further to crossroads at "Krakonošova snídaně" ("Krakonoš's breakfast") where you turn left (and up!) towards Vosecká bouda. Yet further up and there you are, at the red trail following Czech - Polish borders, called Polish–Czech Friendship Trail (Cesta česko-polského přátelství) which you are going to follow for a long time now... more details about the trail at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polish%E2%80%93Czech_Friendship_Trail

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cwy 

Take a breath, enjoy the views... and continue towards Sněžné jámy. And Petrova bouda. And Špindlerovka. And Slonecznik. Hate me already? :) Last part! Enjoy the fantastic view to the lakes (Wielki and Maly Staw) and soon you'll reach crossroad where you turn right, taking yellow to Luční bouda to sleep over. It is not exactly cheap but you don't have to go anywhere down and you stay on the ridge. Plus now they have their own brewery, beer spa, sauna, restaurant etc. Cheapest accommodation is 300 CZK with your own sleeping bag or 400 CZK without it (or more as the luxury goes up:) http://www.lucnibouda.cz/en/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cx3 (red trail; Luční bouda in right below corner) 

Get up, have a breakfast, have a look around outside... See it? Yes, Sněžka. Take blue trail across moorland to Obří sedlo. Then it's clear - red trail and up! It's worth it... 

You go down on the other side and continue on red towards Jelenka, Nad pomezními boudami etc. There are quite many places to eat at "Malá Úpa - Pomezní boudy" - try for example the divine blueberry dumplings! 

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cxj

 Take a green trail now. You'll still follow Czech - Polish borders go through "Pomezní hřeben" (Border ridge). I can't tell you exactly where you'll finish not to spoil the geocache but I promise beautiful views and rewarding hike. 

We then went down and slept at this pension - and I really liked it (and the owners and their hospitality, too!) - but their prices went up a lot since then though... now 650 CZK per person / day incl. breakfast, I hope it's still worth it http://penzion-jonas.webnode.cz/cenik/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxB

Third day, we first took green trail going south (up to "Pod Starou horou" crossroad where we changed to blue to a spa town Janské Lázně. Nothing extremely special but a very nice mostly forest hike (and kilos of mushrooms at that time). Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxL

There are some direct buses to Prague (almost 3 hours) or you may change in Jičín depending on the connection.

Hike Jestřebí - Peklo (Hell) - Česká Lípa (20 km)

Quite amazine hike...! Check the bus connection in advance and decide whether to go direction to Česká Lípa or the other, finishing in Jestřebí. There are not many buses going back to Prague from Jestřebí but there is a very tempting restaurant in old wooden house I plan to visit next time (website in Czech only but photos are promising! http://www.hostinecnarychte.cz/index.php?stranka=fotky)

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/75Nb

Anyway, we took the 8.45 bus (direct from Prague Holešovice, advance purchase of tickets online recommended) to "Jestřebí, křiž.". Or just take a car to Česká Lípa and take a one-way bus or train to Jestřebí.

You start at the Jestřebí castle ruins with amazing view (following the red mark which you are going to follow all day...).

Then go back to the main road, cross it and start enjoying the forest and rocks. Soon you reach a sign pointing to "Skalní vyhlídka" (rock view) - maybe it used to be there but the trees now cover most of it. 

When reaching a small road, I recommend to leave the red trail for a while. http://mapy.cz/s/75NB going through the swamp area (don't worry, it's a normal path) - if nothing else, it's very interesting piece of nature. Then be careful when reaching the main road and walking on it for a while - it's worth it though - cross it to have a look at "Mnichovská průrva", very old canal built in the sandstone.

In less than 200 m leave the road again to red trail - don't miss a close look at the quite unique statue of a bearded girl! Read her story at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilgefortis

Pass the St. Barbora church, the only remainder of former village called Mnichov, destroyed in 17th century. 

Stop at Zahrádky chateau and stroll in its garden. There is a pub and shop if you need refreshment. 

Following the red trail further, you are entering Peklo (= hell)! The most beautiful part of the hike... It's hard to imagine how these "swamps" used to look like in 19th century - stream with boats, ladies in long dressed on a promenade, 3 restaurants, one with dance floor, fields...

 

At one of the signposts next to a small bridge, note a small sign advertising "kozí farma" - goat farm. It's even less than 10 minutes and it's totally worth it! The family made impossible, renovating the ruins and starting a farm there... You can taste all the cheese types before buying and you can even get a guided tour. The prices are higher but you pay for the quality!

When reaching "Skautská skála", the big rock, don't miss a chance to climb up - the view is fantastic! 

The last few kilometres to the centre of Česká Lípa are extremely boring to be honest. We didn't have much time left so we only went to the central square (T. G. Masaryka) to check the very recommended restaurant "U Hrabala". I'd say "average good" but I'm not going back there... 

Buses back to Prague are frequent and cost about 100 Kč per person. 

Easy hiking ( / running / cycling) around Stará Boleslav

 

If you don't like hills like my friend who joined me today, this is paradise for you - there are NO HILLS at all! Which makes the forest to the east (and north) from Stará Boleslav perfect for jogging and cycling, too. We did 14 km but it's easy to make it shorter or longer; it would be very difficult to get lost. Check the map! http://mapy.cz/s/6UL6

There are frequent buses from Prague to station "Brandýs n.L.-St.Bol.,aut.st." from Českomoravská, Vysočanská or Černý most - check in advance. 

I recommend to start (or finish) with visit to amazing local pastry shop Terezčiny domácí dobroty right next to the station (opened Mon-Fri 7-18, Sat-Sun 9-18 (May-September is Sat-Sun 9-19).

 
OK, hiking... :) We followed green up until "Podbrahy" crossroad where we changed to yellow to get back - total distance about 14 km. There are other possibilities where to go - you can also continue and finish at Čelákovice or Lysá nad Labem with frequent train to Prague. The area is forest and don't expect anything special - it's all like you can see on photos. But that still means pleasant stroll! 

 

Btw. the town itself and even more the Brandýs part across the river is very much worth visiting - but I'll leave details for another post.

From Beroun to Řevnice - 24 km (or more!)

From Damil

Waterfall in Tetín

View from Tetín castle

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/6U0z We started at Beroun - there are frequent trains from Praha Hlavní nádraží or Smíchov (or buses from Zličín). If you have enough time take a walk in the town - it's very nice - but I'm leaving details for another post.

You can follow the blue mark for most of the trail. First interesting stop is Tetín. Before reaching the village square you can make a detour to the big hill on your right sight - Damil. Besides a perfect view it is a piece of beautiful nature (there used to be a medieval fortress too).

In Tetín itself, some local sights including the castle ruins with perfect view - more about the history at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tet%C3%ADn_%28Beroun_District%29 . There is a waterfall (15-17 m) under the castle - you can hear the sound of water - just follow it (there is a small but clear path). 

Then the blue trail continues through national natural reserve Koda (with forests, a cave etc.), to village Liteň with a chateau (you cannot see much of it though. You can make a short detour to local Jewish cemetery founded in 1680 - N 49° 53.759 E 014° 08.690) . Next is chateau Svinaře – opened only occassionaly (there will be festival of smithery 1.-2. 6. 2013). 

Altough a big part of the hike is on roads it's still nice because of the landscape views. 

I recommend to stop for a lunch in Halouny in really good pub “U zrzavého paviána”. Look for the signs to follow (some of them say just "Hospoda, občerstvení") or ask - you have to leave the main road to the right... N 49° 53.136 E 014° 12.252. Different menu every day. 

After that, you have to decide for where to continue - our lazy half of the group (including me) took the most direct green trail to Řevnice. Not a bad choice - it's a nice walk in open area with beautiful scenery! If you still have enough energy though, continue on blue trail. Expect quite a few level lines but also perfect hike in forest with a short detour to rock viewpoint Babka. It's also a few km longer.

Trains from Řevnice leave every half an hour Prague.

For geocachers: there are some traditional caches on the way. In Tetin, there is an outstanding multi in English http://coord.info/GC3GMK9 

In Řevnice, don't miss "Spionska" and "Hasici" traditionals.  

 

From Český Brod to Kostelec n. Č. l. + brewery

Pleasant spring hike close to Prague. We did 21 km total but that was only because we did a lot of detours. Map: http://mapy.cz/s/6Phd

Trains to Český Brod leave very often (app. every half an hour) from Prague Masarykovo nádraží. If you have Opencard (public transport pass), buy a ticket from the last station in Prague. They are now renovating surroundings of Č. B. station so go to the centre until you reach the red mark. You can stop for some sightseeing (Wikipedia: St. Gothard's Church (baroque church), Gothic bell tower, middle age town wall, neorenaissance town hall, Prokop Veliký monument, renaissance Trinity Church) and also for sweet breakfast (I didn't try personally but it's supposed to be very good - Cukrárna M+Z Kašovi,
nám. Arnošta z Pardubic 39, Mon 10-17, Tue-Fri 8-12.15+13-17, Sat 8-11.30, Sun 11-16). Also there is an outdoor fitness in local parc to burn the calories after and warm up muscles!

(Extra - I also didn't try - but there are some historical underground cellars in "Městské kulturní a informační centrum" (cultural and info centre, + library) at the main square no. 1).

Follow red trail till Tuchoraz with medieval fortress. Unfortunately it is closed for public so you can only see photos to find out how it looks inside: http://hrady.rajce.idnes.cz/Tuchoraz

Now you can change to blue trail (later also to yellow) but we stayed on red until we reached the crossroads and changed to yellow to see the castle Šember ruins - there are none. But it's a nice place:) We went a bit back down the hill and changed to green, heading directly to Sv. Martin church. It is more beautiful though to just stay on red and walk through the river Šembera valley, you reach the church anyway. It is an interesting one to see, built in the end of 12th century. Unfortunately opened only every 4th Sunday in month (11.30) for mass. 

We continued to Kozojedy wanting to take a shortcut to Kostelec but that was really busy road  so I really don't recommend that - instead take the smaller road to the north (http://mapy.cz/s/6Phw) and then red trail again.

In Kostelec nad Černými lesy, you can just take bus to Prague (quite often from the main squary, going to Háje metro). Or go to the brewery pub - although they don't brew (yet) they offer very good special beers, very nice room with collection of first republic beer boards and pretty good food. The service was worse but that is I'm afraid standard in this country:( There is a beer museum, too, now open every Sat. from 3 pm or you can arrange special tour. Website mostly in Czech... http://www.pivovarkostelec.cz/en

There is a beautiful rennaisance chateau, closed to public, but sometimes you can go to courtyard at least.

There is a museum of pottery (I didn't visit) - open Thu-Sat 10-12 + 13-17

Or, take a walk in beautiful vast forest parc which was used by Soviet Red Army as sanatorium (place for healing lung diseases; there are some abandoned buildings too - unaccessible). You can find the entrance on right side of Kutnohorská road at N 49° 59.390 E 014° 51.858.

For geocachers, there is a 100 caches serie "TFTC" with some quite challenging ones - check the favorite points to select the better caches.   

Northwest from Brno and Brněnská přehrada (dam)

Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic and writing about it or what to do there would just take too much time, space and after all, everybody is interested in something else. Besides, it wouldn't be much about hiking. Anyway it's definitely worth visiting, and there are great places to go hiking around!

Wiki provides a lot of information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brno

Official website in English: http://www2.brno.cz/index.php?lan=en&nav01=20608&nav02=20617

In an extremely hot June day 2012, I decided to walk to Brněnská přehrada instead of taking public transport as everyone else. Only one brave friend accompanied me! (Thanks, Tusi:). We started at the bus+tram station Pisárky (but looking at the map now it would been better and more interesting to start already in the southwest from the centre (bus+tram station Nemocnice Milosrdných bratří) where the green trail starts). Even like that, my GPS claims we did 19 km total. Check map at http://mapy.cz/s/6KOW

From Pisárky, take the blue trail up. It's a pleasant walk, opening some nice views. The trail leads you to game park (preserve) Holedná so if you're lucky, you can see some mouflons and fallow deers. There is a whole circle educational trail going around the parc (NS Holedná). At Vrbovec crossroads, turn right, taking first green trail and soon after yellow leading to Bystrc. There you can visit a ZOO. Besides you can visit "Pivo & Beer", beershop with many specials (Vondrákova 2a, Mo-Fr 11-18, Sat 9-13). Eventually the yellow takes you to huge Brněnská přehrada (dam) which is a perfect place to spend a summer day! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brno_Reservoir

Tip for something I didn't make but I plan for this year - a boat trip! There are supposed to be full information in English but most of it was missing when I visited the page http://www.dpmb.cz/Default.aspx?seo=water-reservoir. Anyway, the boats are going 13. 4. - 13. 10. You can check time of departures here http://www.dpmb.cz/Default.aspx?seo=odjezdy-lodi (left column, first boat is 10.45) as well as list of stations (right column) - you can go to a beautiful castle Veveří (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veve%C5%99%C3%AD_Castle) or to the final station Veverská Bitýška (70 min, 150 Kč adult one-way, 240 Kč return) and hike back (about 12 km taking the red trail - see map at http://mapy.cz/s/6KON). 

To get back to the centre, take bus or tram from station Přístaviště.

Moravian karst and Blansko

Photo by Sergej Esnault

Moravian karst certainly deserves much more time than 1 day I spent there! We went for this trip from Brno but actually the nearest bigger town is Blansko. Map: http://mapy.cz/s/6KFZ

There are some good information in English about the whole area: http://www.moravskykras.net/en/moravian-karst.html

There are some good tips for hiking tours: http://www.moravskykras.net/en/nature.html

 

Extra tip: goat farm in village Šošůvka (I didn't visit but I'd like to) where you can buy some cheese etc. - and they have English website! http://www.sedlakkozy.cz/english/index.php It is app. 10 km walk from Macocha following (probably) very beautiful red trail. From Šošůvka, there are some direct buses to Blansko.

Public transport - you can take a bus from Blansko to station "Vilémovice,,Macocha rozc.2.0" - then you have to go a little back and take red trail - check map at http://mapy.cz/s/6KG9 - it is 2 km to the information centre and Macocha abyss (quite impressive look into it). Next to them, there are some possibilities to eat but it's rather dissappointing as is the service of the information centre. 

There are many possibilities what to visit but it's wise to book tickets in advance at info@caves.cz - many weeks in advance for the main season!!!! We did the most visitied tour - Punkevní cave (jeskyně). You go to the bottom of Macocha and you go an amazing boat ride in the caves - highly recommened http://www.moravskykras.net/en/punkva-caves.html. Price is 100-170 Kč adult (depending on the season), tour takes an hour. So there is enough time to visit the other caves too!

After the cave tour, we started the 10 km hike to Blansko, taking green trail (later changes to blue color at "Obůrka rozc.". I almost fall down while looking for a geocache at castle ruins Blansek (not much left there but still worth going). There is an amazing linden alley on the way to Nové Dvory. Right before entering Blansko, you can refresh in an open swimming pool (called Palava). The blue trail finishes at train station "Blansko město".

In Blansko itself, there are some things to see too:

Chateau with local museum and a parc

Building of former local company Adast, built in 1911, copying an Italian chateau in Terst

Baroque church of st. Martin

Wooden church of st. Paraskiva brought to Blansko in 1936 from Carpathian Ruthenia. Beautiful from outside too but it's also opened for public from June to September, every Wednesday and Saturday 14.00 - 17.00.

etc.

Walk from Lipany to Kouřim and its open air museum

From Prague, take a bus to station "Vitice,Lipany,mohyla" - check for direct buses but you'll probably have to go to Český Brod first. There is a memorial of famous Lipany battle (1434) - read more at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Lipany 

Follow red trail all the way up to Kouřim - it's an easy walk, less than 7 km, through village called Království (= Kingdom) - no idea of whom. There are lot of geocaches around (TFTC serie + some very popular caches in Kouřim). Ideal for winter / early spring (we did it in Dec. 2011). 

http://cernokostelecko.info/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/kourim-img.jpg

In Kouřim, you can spend quite some time sightseeing (historical square, fortification (walls), Jewish cemetary...). There is also astronomical middle of Europe! 

If you have time take yellow trail to educational trail (2,5 km) "NS (naučná stezka) Stará Kouřim" - southeast. Map http://mapy.cz/s/6KeK. First interesting stop is "Lechův kámen" (stone) connected with some legends and beautiful panaroma of the town. Second main point of interest is a former hillfort dating back to years around 4800 B.C. with several settlements during the history. I missed this trail unfortunately but some say the yellow mark dissapers at some parts and goes around the sights. Hope you can find it.

But the main attraction is open air museum (skanzen / muzeum lidových staveb) - collection of old buildings fully equipped to show how people used to live in 17th-19th century. Official website is in Czech only http://www.skanzenkourim.cz.To get there, take green trail from Kouřim square (Komenského and Ruská street, it's less than 1 km).

Opening times: Jan, Feb, March, Nov closed

April, Oct: Fri-Sun, 10:00 - 16:00

May, Jun, Sept: Tue-Sun, 10:00 - 17:00

July, Aug: Tue-Sun, 10:00 - 18:00

Dec (except of 24., 25., 31.): Fri-Sun, 10:00 - 16:00, also opened 26. and 27. 12.

Entrance fee adult - basic 60 Kč, when there is some special programme - 90 Kč

There are some "special days" during the year connected to traditional feasts and handcrafts days during summer - expect special programme, actors in costumes, performance of handcrafts and opened restaurant in the area (tiny but fantastic!). Listed here: http://www.skanzenkourim.cz/pro-navstevniky/narodopisne-porady. 

To get back to Prague, take train to Pečky and change to another train to Praha, Masarykovo nádraží. Train station is 1 km west from the centre. Or there are some buses going to Český Brod (there you change to a train). 

Nové Město nad Metují + nature trail Peklo

"Peklo" actually means "hell" but that's something you would never think of when visiting these places.

We did this hike the opposite way, starting already in village Borová but that part is not so interesting so I'll just skip that.

Recommended start is in Nové Město nad Metují which is beautiful town worth spending some time at. English website http://english.novemestonm.cz provides good information about history, sights, historical square, accommodation and restaurants as well as some hiking and cycling trails recommendations ("For tourists" chapter)! From Prague, you can get here by bus (2,5 h). We ate at "U Paďourů" at the squary - nothing fancy, classic Czech pub, but the food was great! (and cheap).

The main sight there (besides the historical centre, square and fortification) is a chateau - with a web in English http://www.zameknm.cz/en. Check the opening hours. Entrance fee - 100 Kč adult. Gardens free of charge (very nice! Plus unique collections of caricature dwarfs statues from year 1713). 

You can find a map here: http://mapy.cz/s/6K8Z - so you can see you can easily spend a day there with a short walk for example to a viewpoint and castle ruins (red trail to south-east; Juránkova vyhl. + zříc. hradu Výrov - photogallery at http://www.turistik.cz/cz/kraje/kralovehradecky-kraj/okres-nachod/nove-mesto-nad-metuji/zricenina-vyrov/galerie)

Geocaching - there is a power trail close by - first cache at http://coord.info/GC3NG2E - contact me if you need help with translation

So now the PEKLO TRAIL - THE HELL! I couldn't find out why it has such name:( From the town centre and/or bus station, follow red trail. Most of the time you'll go through a beautiful river Metuje valley; it is a nature reserve. You can even go canoeing on the river! Details here http://rivers.raft.cz/metuje/jaro.aspx?ID=3. After about 6 km you reach crossroads of 8 trails with a confluence of rivers Metuje and Olešenka and restaurant called Bartoňova útulna in a unique old building by architect Jurkovič. Our experience was unfortunately rather bad there (the food). 

Now you have to decide where would you like to continue - check map at http://mapy.cz/s/6Ka2. To go back to NMNM, take yellow (very steep at the beginning) or blue (later green) trail with a stop at Sendraž lookout tower (photos at http://rozhledny.webzdarma.cz/sendraz.htm). OR you can continue to Dobrošov (see another post here about it) and/or to Náchod. From there you can take a bus back to NMNM (15 min) or just stay there, take bus/train to Prague etc. Take blue trail if you want directly to Náchod (7 km) or red if you want to stop at Dobrošov first (5 km).

http://turistika.arkotechnik.cz/Reports/R_023_Peklo/R_023_Peklo_08.jpg

Dobrošov military fortress and surroundings

 Do you like military history of 20th century? You can easily spend a day around this fortress. It was a part of border fortification against Germany built from 1937. There are many military objects spread around the area - check the tourist map at http://mapy.cz/s/6JZq

The main object is accessible in following months and hours. It's closed every Monday! Entrance fee adult 100 Kč. English - only printed information.

• May-September except Mo 10:00-12:00 13:30-18:00 (with guide)
• April, October except Mo 10:00-12:00 13:30-16:00 (with guide)
• year-round all day (groups only by reservation)

There are very good tourist information at http://www.east-bohemia.info/nachod/13_4469_dobrosov-fortress-military-fortifications including tips where to go in the region ("In the surroundings"). And there are many! Nové Město nad Metují, Babiččino údolí, countless nature trails with panoramic views... A lot of topics for next posts!

We got there by car but there are many hiking possibilities around. Perfect start is at Náchod which is a town worth visiting and even staying at for a few days, making it suitable base for exploring the region. Some info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A1chod. Try local beer Primátor! From Náchod train station, follow red mark up until reaching "Jiráskova chata"; from there yellow or green to the fortress ("pevnost").About 5,5 km total.

Jiráskova chata is quite a unique and beautiful building (built 1921-3 by famous architect Jurkovič). Worth visiting! There is a restaurant... but my experience with it wasn't very good (especially with the service). 

To get back, take a bus to Náchod or walk - take green marked trail for example, and visit some more military sights along the way.