Krkonoše in winter - Rokytnice nad Jizerou and surroundings

Visited in: February 2014

As you probably noticed, snow conditions were terrible this winter in the Czech Republic. But who could have known couple of months ago when we booked our winter holiday? Well as I am not a big fan of cross-country skiing we spent most of the days hiking.

Weather can change quickly in the mountains and weather forecast is not always reliable... you can meet all possible conditions in one day so be ready for that:)

 

Tip for cheap accommodation: 170 CZK per night. http://www.erlebaska.cz/ at 1020 m. - noisy but everything else is fine. You have to cook yourself or go up 300 metres to a restaurant. It is a few kilometres up from Rokytnice nad Jizerou or you can order a car from Dvoračky to take you there (and mainly your baggages), 600 CZK one way.

"Dvoračky" restaurant was our base every day with Budvar beer, amazing soup ("krkonošské kyselo") and blueberry cakes and dumplings. http://www.dvoracky.cz/cs/

They have their own lift and short slope but you can ski through the forest and reach Lysá hora slopes for - usually - pretty good skiing. 

There are quite many trips you can do (this one quite easily on cross-country ski, too); the easiest and probably most beautiful is red trail up to the ridge - map http://mapy.cz/s/9qaX - enjoy the view while going towards "Vrbatova bouda" (1397 m). There you can get some refreshment (9.30-16.00) and stop at memorial of Hanč and Vrbata who both died in 1913 during 50 km ski competition because of the weather change (to cut the story short).

From there you can continue on red trail further away from Dvoračky, or, what I would recommend, turn to the right direction Labská bouda passing Pančavský waterfall (vodopád). You can have another beer at Labská bouda, however despite promoting their own microbrewery, they didn't have anything but Budvar at the time we were there. They also offer accommodation which may be an option if you are planning a trip for more days and don't want to go down from the ridge http://www.labskabouda.cz/en

Take a very short detour to Labský vodopád (waterfall) and continue to Pramen Labe (spring of river Labe that is, in the end, 1154 km long) but you won't see anything if there is snow. Here you can turn back to close the circle - follow yellow and later green trail to the crossroads "U Růženčiny zahrádky" where you reach again red trail leading back to Dvoračky.

Another pretty nice hike about 16 km (with more ups and downs on the way) was from Dvoračky to Horní Mísečky on green trail and then up to the ridge following yellow trail to Vrbatova bouda and then red trail back to Dvoračky. 

Trip to Harrachov was mainly motivated by our desire to visit local brewery:) The hike itself is a bit boring despite nice nature around - 7 km straight down the hill on green trail and the same way up http://mapy.cz/s/9qBQ (but if we had a bit more time we would definitely take different trail to go back - specifically the blue one heading to Mumlavský vodopád / waterfall, really nice place! Then we would just continue to "Krakonošova snídaně", then yellow, blue and green back to Dvoračky).

The actual town Harrachov is pretty scary in my view. "Las Vegas casino, Venice pizzeria, Amsterdam café"... certainly not places I'd visit when being in this region. But we had to pass them all to reach the brewery! http://www.sklarnaharrachov.cz/ - beer and food were pretty good so it was worth it. If you have some time you can also visit excursion in their traditional glass production hall. Of course skiing is another possibility what to do if there is enough snow:)

I'm sure you can see plenty of other possibilities where to go... I have some places on my list for next time, like a farm "Hucul" http://www.hucul.cz/ofarme.php with accommodation, horses and other animals, horse-riding, and allegedly very good restaurant with beef of their own production (Scottish highland cows). 

Btw. if you are interested in the mysterious man with a long beard,  wooden stick and hat with bird feathers - Krakonoš - whose pictures and sculptures and name is almost everywhere in this region - there is a quite nice text in English at Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%BCbezahl

The best of Krkonoše - allow a weekend or more!

So, Krkonoše (Giant Mountains) is highly visited area not just because our highest mountain (Sněžka at 1602 metres) is there. It is popular destination for winter sports as well as for all kinds of summer sports including hiking. Just with hiking, you could spend weeks there... especially when mushrooms and blueberries start to grow. But be aware of the fact you are in national parc and it is not allowed to go outside of official trails.

More about Krkonoše generally including many photos: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krkono%C5%A1e

I was there couple of times, climbed Sněžka in April when there was still snow and we sledged down on a slope... but the best visit was a 3 days hike which I am going to present you here as a suggestion for a long weekend. It all started with geocaching and perfectly planned multi-cache called "Krkonose Crossing" - http://coord.info/GC1KVVN - in English, too. It takes you to the main red trail across the ridge and most people finish in less than 2 days. However when you are already that far why not make it 3 or more days?

Start in Harrachov - it takes less than 3 hours to get there by bus (direct) from Prague. Or take a train to Tanvald and then change to local train to Harrachov - it's a unique and beautiful railway! (specific details at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cog_railway_Tanvald%E2%80%93Harrachov) 

There is quite a lot to do in Harrachov itself but if you want to finish at Luční bouda this day you should hurry up:) Head to Mumlavský vodopád (waterfall) following blue sign. Continue further to crossroads at "Krakonošova snídaně" ("Krakonoš's breakfast") where you turn left (and up!) towards Vosecká bouda. Yet further up and there you are, at the red trail following Czech - Polish borders, called Polish–Czech Friendship Trail (Cesta česko-polského přátelství) which you are going to follow for a long time now... more details about the trail at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polish%E2%80%93Czech_Friendship_Trail

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cwy 

Take a breath, enjoy the views... and continue towards Sněžné jámy. And Petrova bouda. And Špindlerovka. And Slonecznik. Hate me already? :) Last part! Enjoy the fantastic view to the lakes (Wielki and Maly Staw) and soon you'll reach crossroad where you turn right, taking yellow to Luční bouda to sleep over. It is not exactly cheap but you don't have to go anywhere down and you stay on the ridge. Plus now they have their own brewery, beer spa, sauna, restaurant etc. Cheapest accommodation is 300 CZK with your own sleeping bag or 400 CZK without it (or more as the luxury goes up:) http://www.lucnibouda.cz/en/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cx3 (red trail; Luční bouda in right below corner) 

Get up, have a breakfast, have a look around outside... See it? Yes, Sněžka. Take blue trail across moorland to Obří sedlo. Then it's clear - red trail and up! It's worth it... 

You go down on the other side and continue on red towards Jelenka, Nad pomezními boudami etc. There are quite many places to eat at "Malá Úpa - Pomezní boudy" - try for example the divine blueberry dumplings! 

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cxj

 Take a green trail now. You'll still follow Czech - Polish borders go through "Pomezní hřeben" (Border ridge). I can't tell you exactly where you'll finish not to spoil the geocache but I promise beautiful views and rewarding hike. 

We then went down and slept at this pension - and I really liked it (and the owners and their hospitality, too!) - but their prices went up a lot since then though... now 650 CZK per person / day incl. breakfast, I hope it's still worth it http://penzion-jonas.webnode.cz/cenik/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxB

Third day, we first took green trail going south (up to "Pod Starou horou" crossroad where we changed to blue to a spa town Janské Lázně. Nothing extremely special but a very nice mostly forest hike (and kilos of mushrooms at that time). Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxL

There are some direct buses to Prague (almost 3 hours) or you may change in Jičín depending on the connection.

Hike Jestřebí - Peklo (Hell) - Česká Lípa (20 km)

Quite amazine hike...! Check the bus connection in advance and decide whether to go direction to Česká Lípa or the other, finishing in Jestřebí. There are not many buses going back to Prague from Jestřebí but there is a very tempting restaurant in old wooden house I plan to visit next time (website in Czech only but photos are promising! http://www.hostinecnarychte.cz/index.php?stranka=fotky)

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/75Nb

Anyway, we took the 8.45 bus (direct from Prague Holešovice, advance purchase of tickets online recommended) to "Jestřebí, křiž.". Or just take a car to Česká Lípa and take a one-way bus or train to Jestřebí.

You start at the Jestřebí castle ruins with amazing view (following the red mark which you are going to follow all day...).

Then go back to the main road, cross it and start enjoying the forest and rocks. Soon you reach a sign pointing to "Skalní vyhlídka" (rock view) - maybe it used to be there but the trees now cover most of it. 

When reaching a small road, I recommend to leave the red trail for a while. http://mapy.cz/s/75NB going through the swamp area (don't worry, it's a normal path) - if nothing else, it's very interesting piece of nature. Then be careful when reaching the main road and walking on it for a while - it's worth it though - cross it to have a look at "Mnichovská průrva", very old canal built in the sandstone.

In less than 200 m leave the road again to red trail - don't miss a close look at the quite unique statue of a bearded girl! Read her story at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilgefortis

Pass the St. Barbora church, the only remainder of former village called Mnichov, destroyed in 17th century. 

Stop at Zahrádky chateau and stroll in its garden. There is a pub and shop if you need refreshment. 

Following the red trail further, you are entering Peklo (= hell)! The most beautiful part of the hike... It's hard to imagine how these "swamps" used to look like in 19th century - stream with boats, ladies in long dressed on a promenade, 3 restaurants, one with dance floor, fields...

 

At one of the signposts next to a small bridge, note a small sign advertising "kozí farma" - goat farm. It's even less than 10 minutes and it's totally worth it! The family made impossible, renovating the ruins and starting a farm there... You can taste all the cheese types before buying and you can even get a guided tour. The prices are higher but you pay for the quality!

When reaching "Skautská skála", the big rock, don't miss a chance to climb up - the view is fantastic! 

The last few kilometres to the centre of Česká Lípa are extremely boring to be honest. We didn't have much time left so we only went to the central square (T. G. Masaryka) to check the very recommended restaurant "U Hrabala". I'd say "average good" but I'm not going back there... 

Buses back to Prague are frequent and cost about 100 Kč per person.