Šumava - wilderness guided tours in national park

National park Šumava in south Bohemia organizes every year extremely interesting tour "Průvodci divočinou" (Guides to the wilderness) http://www.npsumava.cz/cz/1081/sekce/pruvodci-divocinou-2014/ to areas with no or limited access. It's all in Czech so it's good to have someone speaking Czech to translate for you however even if you miss the "talking" you can still enjoy beautiful preserved nature. 

There are shorter trails (10 km) as well as trails up to 21 km... most of them are off-path so be ready for difficult terrain, peat bogs with lot of water etc. There are weekdays, Saturdays and Sundays, June - October. This year, I did "Trojmezná" on 10. 10. and "Zhůřská hnízdiště" on 11. 10., both tours were perfect, and the weather was amazing... Apparently, the weather tends to be better in autumn rather than in July or August! 

It is important to register in time - to do that, you have to check announcement of a day when the registration starts. This year it was 28. 5. at 9:00. Some of the tours are sold out extremely fast. You can only register one person to one e-mail (you cannot send registration for 2+ people) at this site (http://www.npsumava.cz/cz/1522/sekce/registrace-na-vychazky/ - there will be list of the tours organized by date, you click on it, fill your name, e-mail...). Important is that registration is not valid until you click on the link in e-mail confirmation! Only after you confirm your registration by doing that, your place is booked. Then you have to pay the fee in 5 days (different for each tour, 190 - 450 CZK per person). Complicated but worth it:)

How new forest grows

The trail! Across the fallen trees... 

Some of the best Vltava views. From Vysoký Újezd to Třebsín

Date of last visit: 8. 5. 2013

Nature will probably become green much sooner than last year so consider one day trip from Prague to this beautiful area for amazing views and hike in forests and meadows.

From Prague, take a bus from Smíchovské nádraží, no. 390, change at Štěchovice to bus no. 438 to Vysoký Újezd. If you want to make your trip shorter or go further to Štěchovice for example, you can also get off already at "Krňany, Teletín".

See map: http://mapy.cz/s/9qGd

 Follow blue trail direction Rabyně for 2 km to crossroads called "Pexův luh" where you change to yellow. From there it is only 6,5 km to Třebsín so it's really not a challenging hike:)

If you have GPS, consider small detour to one extra beautiful view at N 49° 49.505 E 014° 27.012 (or http://mapy.cz/s/9yK0 )

 
 

After passing Teletín, you will reach detour to view called "Máj" (May) which is 101% worth visiting. You may need map to continue as there were too many marks missing in the next part of the trail.

Shortly before reaching Třebsín, take another detour to Smetanova vyhlídka (view).

When you reach road, there is a station of bus no. 438 (station called "Krňany, rozc. Třebsín").

You can also continue further (for example up to Štěchovice); just a little longer on blue marked trail "to the left" (direction Štěchovice) and you can stop at "Usedlost Medník", little local farm. If you're lucky you can get wonderful products (milk, "tvaroh", meat...). It is very close to next station of bus 438 called "Krňany, Závist, u křížku", a bit back following the main road (exactly here: http://mapy.cz/s/9yKA )

The best of Krkonoše - allow a weekend or more!

So, Krkonoše (Giant Mountains) is highly visited area not just because our highest mountain (Sněžka at 1602 metres) is there. It is popular destination for winter sports as well as for all kinds of summer sports including hiking. Just with hiking, you could spend weeks there... especially when mushrooms and blueberries start to grow. But be aware of the fact you are in national parc and it is not allowed to go outside of official trails.

More about Krkonoše generally including many photos: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krkono%C5%A1e

I was there couple of times, climbed Sněžka in April when there was still snow and we sledged down on a slope... but the best visit was a 3 days hike which I am going to present you here as a suggestion for a long weekend. It all started with geocaching and perfectly planned multi-cache called "Krkonose Crossing" - http://coord.info/GC1KVVN - in English, too. It takes you to the main red trail across the ridge and most people finish in less than 2 days. However when you are already that far why not make it 3 or more days?

Start in Harrachov - it takes less than 3 hours to get there by bus (direct) from Prague. Or take a train to Tanvald and then change to local train to Harrachov - it's a unique and beautiful railway! (specific details at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cog_railway_Tanvald%E2%80%93Harrachov) 

There is quite a lot to do in Harrachov itself but if you want to finish at Luční bouda this day you should hurry up:) Head to Mumlavský vodopád (waterfall) following blue sign. Continue further to crossroads at "Krakonošova snídaně" ("Krakonoš's breakfast") where you turn left (and up!) towards Vosecká bouda. Yet further up and there you are, at the red trail following Czech - Polish borders, called Polish–Czech Friendship Trail (Cesta česko-polského přátelství) which you are going to follow for a long time now... more details about the trail at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polish%E2%80%93Czech_Friendship_Trail

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cwy 

Take a breath, enjoy the views... and continue towards Sněžné jámy. And Petrova bouda. And Špindlerovka. And Slonecznik. Hate me already? :) Last part! Enjoy the fantastic view to the lakes (Wielki and Maly Staw) and soon you'll reach crossroad where you turn right, taking yellow to Luční bouda to sleep over. It is not exactly cheap but you don't have to go anywhere down and you stay on the ridge. Plus now they have their own brewery, beer spa, sauna, restaurant etc. Cheapest accommodation is 300 CZK with your own sleeping bag or 400 CZK without it (or more as the luxury goes up:) http://www.lucnibouda.cz/en/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cx3 (red trail; Luční bouda in right below corner) 

Get up, have a breakfast, have a look around outside... See it? Yes, Sněžka. Take blue trail across moorland to Obří sedlo. Then it's clear - red trail and up! It's worth it... 

You go down on the other side and continue on red towards Jelenka, Nad pomezními boudami etc. There are quite many places to eat at "Malá Úpa - Pomezní boudy" - try for example the divine blueberry dumplings! 

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cxj

 Take a green trail now. You'll still follow Czech - Polish borders go through "Pomezní hřeben" (Border ridge). I can't tell you exactly where you'll finish not to spoil the geocache but I promise beautiful views and rewarding hike. 

We then went down and slept at this pension - and I really liked it (and the owners and their hospitality, too!) - but their prices went up a lot since then though... now 650 CZK per person / day incl. breakfast, I hope it's still worth it http://penzion-jonas.webnode.cz/cenik/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxB

Third day, we first took green trail going south (up to "Pod Starou horou" crossroad where we changed to blue to a spa town Janské Lázně. Nothing extremely special but a very nice mostly forest hike (and kilos of mushrooms at that time). Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxL

There are some direct buses to Prague (almost 3 hours) or you may change in Jičín depending on the connection.

Hike Jestřebí - Peklo (Hell) - Česká Lípa (20 km)

Quite amazine hike...! Check the bus connection in advance and decide whether to go direction to Česká Lípa or the other, finishing in Jestřebí. There are not many buses going back to Prague from Jestřebí but there is a very tempting restaurant in old wooden house I plan to visit next time (website in Czech only but photos are promising! http://www.hostinecnarychte.cz/index.php?stranka=fotky)

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/75Nb

Anyway, we took the 8.45 bus (direct from Prague Holešovice, advance purchase of tickets online recommended) to "Jestřebí, křiž.". Or just take a car to Česká Lípa and take a one-way bus or train to Jestřebí.

You start at the Jestřebí castle ruins with amazing view (following the red mark which you are going to follow all day...).

Then go back to the main road, cross it and start enjoying the forest and rocks. Soon you reach a sign pointing to "Skalní vyhlídka" (rock view) - maybe it used to be there but the trees now cover most of it. 

When reaching a small road, I recommend to leave the red trail for a while. http://mapy.cz/s/75NB going through the swamp area (don't worry, it's a normal path) - if nothing else, it's very interesting piece of nature. Then be careful when reaching the main road and walking on it for a while - it's worth it though - cross it to have a look at "Mnichovská průrva", very old canal built in the sandstone.

In less than 200 m leave the road again to red trail - don't miss a close look at the quite unique statue of a bearded girl! Read her story at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilgefortis

Pass the St. Barbora church, the only remainder of former village called Mnichov, destroyed in 17th century. 

Stop at Zahrádky chateau and stroll in its garden. There is a pub and shop if you need refreshment. 

Following the red trail further, you are entering Peklo (= hell)! The most beautiful part of the hike... It's hard to imagine how these "swamps" used to look like in 19th century - stream with boats, ladies in long dressed on a promenade, 3 restaurants, one with dance floor, fields...

 

At one of the signposts next to a small bridge, note a small sign advertising "kozí farma" - goat farm. It's even less than 10 minutes and it's totally worth it! The family made impossible, renovating the ruins and starting a farm there... You can taste all the cheese types before buying and you can even get a guided tour. The prices are higher but you pay for the quality!

When reaching "Skautská skála", the big rock, don't miss a chance to climb up - the view is fantastic! 

The last few kilometres to the centre of Česká Lípa are extremely boring to be honest. We didn't have much time left so we only went to the central square (T. G. Masaryka) to check the very recommended restaurant "U Hrabala". I'd say "average good" but I'm not going back there... 

Buses back to Prague are frequent and cost about 100 Kč per person.