Krkonoše in winter - Rokytnice nad Jizerou and surroundings

Visited in: February 2014

As you probably noticed, snow conditions were terrible this winter in the Czech Republic. But who could have known couple of months ago when we booked our winter holiday? Well as I am not a big fan of cross-country skiing we spent most of the days hiking.

Weather can change quickly in the mountains and weather forecast is not always reliable... you can meet all possible conditions in one day so be ready for that:)

 

Tip for cheap accommodation: 170 CZK per night. http://www.erlebaska.cz/ at 1020 m. - noisy but everything else is fine. You have to cook yourself or go up 300 metres to a restaurant. It is a few kilometres up from Rokytnice nad Jizerou or you can order a car from Dvoračky to take you there (and mainly your baggages), 600 CZK one way.

"Dvoračky" restaurant was our base every day with Budvar beer, amazing soup ("krkonošské kyselo") and blueberry cakes and dumplings. http://www.dvoracky.cz/cs/

They have their own lift and short slope but you can ski through the forest and reach Lysá hora slopes for - usually - pretty good skiing. 

There are quite many trips you can do (this one quite easily on cross-country ski, too); the easiest and probably most beautiful is red trail up to the ridge - map http://mapy.cz/s/9qaX - enjoy the view while going towards "Vrbatova bouda" (1397 m). There you can get some refreshment (9.30-16.00) and stop at memorial of Hanč and Vrbata who both died in 1913 during 50 km ski competition because of the weather change (to cut the story short).

From there you can continue on red trail further away from Dvoračky, or, what I would recommend, turn to the right direction Labská bouda passing Pančavský waterfall (vodopád). You can have another beer at Labská bouda, however despite promoting their own microbrewery, they didn't have anything but Budvar at the time we were there. They also offer accommodation which may be an option if you are planning a trip for more days and don't want to go down from the ridge http://www.labskabouda.cz/en

Take a very short detour to Labský vodopád (waterfall) and continue to Pramen Labe (spring of river Labe that is, in the end, 1154 km long) but you won't see anything if there is snow. Here you can turn back to close the circle - follow yellow and later green trail to the crossroads "U Růženčiny zahrádky" where you reach again red trail leading back to Dvoračky.

Another pretty nice hike about 16 km (with more ups and downs on the way) was from Dvoračky to Horní Mísečky on green trail and then up to the ridge following yellow trail to Vrbatova bouda and then red trail back to Dvoračky. 

Trip to Harrachov was mainly motivated by our desire to visit local brewery:) The hike itself is a bit boring despite nice nature around - 7 km straight down the hill on green trail and the same way up http://mapy.cz/s/9qBQ (but if we had a bit more time we would definitely take different trail to go back - specifically the blue one heading to Mumlavský vodopád / waterfall, really nice place! Then we would just continue to "Krakonošova snídaně", then yellow, blue and green back to Dvoračky).

The actual town Harrachov is pretty scary in my view. "Las Vegas casino, Venice pizzeria, Amsterdam café"... certainly not places I'd visit when being in this region. But we had to pass them all to reach the brewery! http://www.sklarnaharrachov.cz/ - beer and food were pretty good so it was worth it. If you have some time you can also visit excursion in their traditional glass production hall. Of course skiing is another possibility what to do if there is enough snow:)

I'm sure you can see plenty of other possibilities where to go... I have some places on my list for next time, like a farm "Hucul" http://www.hucul.cz/ofarme.php with accommodation, horses and other animals, horse-riding, and allegedly very good restaurant with beef of their own production (Scottish highland cows). 

Btw. if you are interested in the mysterious man with a long beard,  wooden stick and hat with bird feathers - Krakonoš - whose pictures and sculptures and name is almost everywhere in this region - there is a quite nice text in English at Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%BCbezahl

Krušné Hory - Klínovec and Jáchymov - mountain hiking

Date of visit: 22nd June 2013

At least two days and a car recommended! However we made one day trip, over 30 km circle from and to Boží Dar.

 Transport: Altough there are some buses from Prague, it takes a lot of time and it gets even more complicated in the evening to go back. Therefore I really recommend to take a car and stay overnight - there are so many places to visit in this area! 

The area combines glorious old and sad modern history and beautiful nature despite the damages on environment caused during communist era.

There is a very good article at Wikipedia about Krušné Hory - I'd highlight the history part. The region never recovered after the German population was expelled after WWII; also the famous mining history is pretty much gone (Jáchymov used to be the second richest city in Bohemia). I'll get back to the history below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ore_Mountains

Here you can find a gallery of old and new photographs of the same places ("before and after") http://www.antikomplex.cz/fotogalerie/album/22-krusne-hory/

They even recently tore down one of the main symbols of Jáchymov, "Hornický dům" (Miner's house) that was built in 50's and was used for gatherings of all locals, there was a cinema, restaurant, wine bar... What was left just before the demolition can be seen here http://www.panoramio.com/photo/4512375 

Back to hiking... We started in Boží Dar, the advantage is that it lies already over 1000 metres high so you don't really have to go up much to reach Klínovec, the highest mountain of Krušné hory (1244 m). Follow the red mark (goes along a church and under a big road) - map: http://mapy.cz/s/7NRL - and you are there soon. Sadly, the old restaurant and lookout tower is almost destructed; however they are now working on renovation and therefore the whole top of the mountain is a big construction site...

Klínovec - past. Source:  http://www.bozidarsko.eu/zarizeni-infrastruktura/

Klínovec - today

Klínovec - future

We then continued on yellow (later green) trail to Jáchymov. Looking back I'd probably be lazier, go the same way back to the car and drove to Jáchymov (and make extra walking kilometres around). Why? Because it is pretty boring way down the hill. By "down" I mean from 1244 m to 560 m above sea level on 6,5 km trail.

Jáchymov is still famous for its radon spa and the lower part of town is pretty nice. More about Jáchymov and its history at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C3%A1chymov 

After a walk and some geocaching, we went to the upper part of town to "Hornické muzeum Jáchymov" - Mining museum (map: http://mapy.cz/s/9pIL ) - reminding us of the most famous and infamous of this region at the same time. From the medieval silver mining to uranium mining after WWII till 1964, by prisoners, often political, who were held and forced to work here in terrible conditions. Entrance fee is 50 CZK per person, opening times May - October: Wednesday to Sunday, with tours at 10:00 ; 11:00 ; 13:00; 14:00; 15:00, 16:00. 

We then followed yellow trail up the hill, it is an educational trail "Jáchymov hell" ("NS Jáchymovská peklo") reminding of mines and prisoner's camps used mainly in 50's. The first camp was pretty close to the present times miner's museum, you won't miss it, and it was one of the "smaller" camps: there were 450 - 750 prisoners.  

We continued on yellow trail, changed to red, yellow again and red again - see map http://mapy.cz/s/9pJ8 , we passed along mountain called Božídarský Špičák (highest hill of volcano origin in middle Europe, 1115 m) until we reached the crossroads at "Božídarské rašeliniště" - peatbog. You can choose either 1,2 km trail or 2 km trail back to Boží Dar - you may be tired but take the longer one, it's an icing on the cake! And then you'll be also rewarded by a nice and cheap lunch and beer at any place you choose back in Boží Dar (we ended up in the very first restaurant and it was great:) 

The best of Krkonoše - allow a weekend or more!

So, Krkonoše (Giant Mountains) is highly visited area not just because our highest mountain (Sněžka at 1602 metres) is there. It is popular destination for winter sports as well as for all kinds of summer sports including hiking. Just with hiking, you could spend weeks there... especially when mushrooms and blueberries start to grow. But be aware of the fact you are in national parc and it is not allowed to go outside of official trails.

More about Krkonoše generally including many photos: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krkono%C5%A1e

I was there couple of times, climbed Sněžka in April when there was still snow and we sledged down on a slope... but the best visit was a 3 days hike which I am going to present you here as a suggestion for a long weekend. It all started with geocaching and perfectly planned multi-cache called "Krkonose Crossing" - http://coord.info/GC1KVVN - in English, too. It takes you to the main red trail across the ridge and most people finish in less than 2 days. However when you are already that far why not make it 3 or more days?

Start in Harrachov - it takes less than 3 hours to get there by bus (direct) from Prague. Or take a train to Tanvald and then change to local train to Harrachov - it's a unique and beautiful railway! (specific details at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cog_railway_Tanvald%E2%80%93Harrachov) 

There is quite a lot to do in Harrachov itself but if you want to finish at Luční bouda this day you should hurry up:) Head to Mumlavský vodopád (waterfall) following blue sign. Continue further to crossroads at "Krakonošova snídaně" ("Krakonoš's breakfast") where you turn left (and up!) towards Vosecká bouda. Yet further up and there you are, at the red trail following Czech - Polish borders, called Polish–Czech Friendship Trail (Cesta česko-polského přátelství) which you are going to follow for a long time now... more details about the trail at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polish%E2%80%93Czech_Friendship_Trail

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cwy 

Take a breath, enjoy the views... and continue towards Sněžné jámy. And Petrova bouda. And Špindlerovka. And Slonecznik. Hate me already? :) Last part! Enjoy the fantastic view to the lakes (Wielki and Maly Staw) and soon you'll reach crossroad where you turn right, taking yellow to Luční bouda to sleep over. It is not exactly cheap but you don't have to go anywhere down and you stay on the ridge. Plus now they have their own brewery, beer spa, sauna, restaurant etc. Cheapest accommodation is 300 CZK with your own sleeping bag or 400 CZK without it (or more as the luxury goes up:) http://www.lucnibouda.cz/en/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cx3 (red trail; Luční bouda in right below corner) 

Get up, have a breakfast, have a look around outside... See it? Yes, Sněžka. Take blue trail across moorland to Obří sedlo. Then it's clear - red trail and up! It's worth it... 

You go down on the other side and continue on red towards Jelenka, Nad pomezními boudami etc. There are quite many places to eat at "Malá Úpa - Pomezní boudy" - try for example the divine blueberry dumplings! 

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7Cxj

 Take a green trail now. You'll still follow Czech - Polish borders go through "Pomezní hřeben" (Border ridge). I can't tell you exactly where you'll finish not to spoil the geocache but I promise beautiful views and rewarding hike. 

We then went down and slept at this pension - and I really liked it (and the owners and their hospitality, too!) - but their prices went up a lot since then though... now 650 CZK per person / day incl. breakfast, I hope it's still worth it http://penzion-jonas.webnode.cz/cenik/

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxB

Third day, we first took green trail going south (up to "Pod Starou horou" crossroad where we changed to blue to a spa town Janské Lázně. Nothing extremely special but a very nice mostly forest hike (and kilos of mushrooms at that time). Map: http://mapy.cz/s/7CxL

There are some direct buses to Prague (almost 3 hours) or you may change in Jičín depending on the connection.

Hike Jestřebí - Peklo (Hell) - Česká Lípa (20 km)

Quite amazine hike...! Check the bus connection in advance and decide whether to go direction to Česká Lípa or the other, finishing in Jestřebí. There are not many buses going back to Prague from Jestřebí but there is a very tempting restaurant in old wooden house I plan to visit next time (website in Czech only but photos are promising! http://www.hostinecnarychte.cz/index.php?stranka=fotky)

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/75Nb

Anyway, we took the 8.45 bus (direct from Prague Holešovice, advance purchase of tickets online recommended) to "Jestřebí, křiž.". Or just take a car to Česká Lípa and take a one-way bus or train to Jestřebí.

You start at the Jestřebí castle ruins with amazing view (following the red mark which you are going to follow all day...).

Then go back to the main road, cross it and start enjoying the forest and rocks. Soon you reach a sign pointing to "Skalní vyhlídka" (rock view) - maybe it used to be there but the trees now cover most of it. 

When reaching a small road, I recommend to leave the red trail for a while. http://mapy.cz/s/75NB going through the swamp area (don't worry, it's a normal path) - if nothing else, it's very interesting piece of nature. Then be careful when reaching the main road and walking on it for a while - it's worth it though - cross it to have a look at "Mnichovská průrva", very old canal built in the sandstone.

In less than 200 m leave the road again to red trail - don't miss a close look at the quite unique statue of a bearded girl! Read her story at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilgefortis

Pass the St. Barbora church, the only remainder of former village called Mnichov, destroyed in 17th century. 

Stop at Zahrádky chateau and stroll in its garden. There is a pub and shop if you need refreshment. 

Following the red trail further, you are entering Peklo (= hell)! The most beautiful part of the hike... It's hard to imagine how these "swamps" used to look like in 19th century - stream with boats, ladies in long dressed on a promenade, 3 restaurants, one with dance floor, fields...

 

At one of the signposts next to a small bridge, note a small sign advertising "kozí farma" - goat farm. It's even less than 10 minutes and it's totally worth it! The family made impossible, renovating the ruins and starting a farm there... You can taste all the cheese types before buying and you can even get a guided tour. The prices are higher but you pay for the quality!

When reaching "Skautská skála", the big rock, don't miss a chance to climb up - the view is fantastic! 

The last few kilometres to the centre of Česká Lípa are extremely boring to be honest. We didn't have much time left so we only went to the central square (T. G. Masaryka) to check the very recommended restaurant "U Hrabala". I'd say "average good" but I'm not going back there... 

Buses back to Prague are frequent and cost about 100 Kč per person. 

Easy hiking ( / running / cycling) around Stará Boleslav

 

If you don't like hills like my friend who joined me today, this is paradise for you - there are NO HILLS at all! Which makes the forest to the east (and north) from Stará Boleslav perfect for jogging and cycling, too. We did 14 km but it's easy to make it shorter or longer; it would be very difficult to get lost. Check the map! http://mapy.cz/s/6UL6

There are frequent buses from Prague to station "Brandýs n.L.-St.Bol.,aut.st." from Českomoravská, Vysočanská or Černý most - check in advance. 

I recommend to start (or finish) with visit to amazing local pastry shop Terezčiny domácí dobroty right next to the station (opened Mon-Fri 7-18, Sat-Sun 9-18 (May-September is Sat-Sun 9-19).

 
OK, hiking... :) We followed green up until "Podbrahy" crossroad where we changed to yellow to get back - total distance about 14 km. There are other possibilities where to go - you can also continue and finish at Čelákovice or Lysá nad Labem with frequent train to Prague. The area is forest and don't expect anything special - it's all like you can see on photos. But that still means pleasant stroll! 

 

Btw. the town itself and even more the Brandýs part across the river is very much worth visiting - but I'll leave details for another post.

From Beroun to Řevnice - 24 km (or more!)

From Damil

Waterfall in Tetín

View from Tetín castle

Map: http://mapy.cz/s/6U0z We started at Beroun - there are frequent trains from Praha Hlavní nádraží or Smíchov (or buses from Zličín). If you have enough time take a walk in the town - it's very nice - but I'm leaving details for another post.

You can follow the blue mark for most of the trail. First interesting stop is Tetín. Before reaching the village square you can make a detour to the big hill on your right sight - Damil. Besides a perfect view it is a piece of beautiful nature (there used to be a medieval fortress too).

In Tetín itself, some local sights including the castle ruins with perfect view - more about the history at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tet%C3%ADn_%28Beroun_District%29 . There is a waterfall (15-17 m) under the castle - you can hear the sound of water - just follow it (there is a small but clear path). 

Then the blue trail continues through national natural reserve Koda (with forests, a cave etc.), to village Liteň with a chateau (you cannot see much of it though. You can make a short detour to local Jewish cemetery founded in 1680 - N 49° 53.759 E 014° 08.690) . Next is chateau Svinaře – opened only occassionaly (there will be festival of smithery 1.-2. 6. 2013). 

Altough a big part of the hike is on roads it's still nice because of the landscape views. 

I recommend to stop for a lunch in Halouny in really good pub “U zrzavého paviána”. Look for the signs to follow (some of them say just "Hospoda, občerstvení") or ask - you have to leave the main road to the right... N 49° 53.136 E 014° 12.252. Different menu every day. 

After that, you have to decide for where to continue - our lazy half of the group (including me) took the most direct green trail to Řevnice. Not a bad choice - it's a nice walk in open area with beautiful scenery! If you still have enough energy though, continue on blue trail. Expect quite a few level lines but also perfect hike in forest with a short detour to rock viewpoint Babka. It's also a few km longer.

Trains from Řevnice leave every half an hour Prague.

For geocachers: there are some traditional caches on the way. In Tetin, there is an outstanding multi in English http://coord.info/GC3GMK9 

In Řevnice, don't miss "Spionska" and "Hasici" traditionals.  

 

From Český Brod to Kostelec n. Č. l. + brewery

Pleasant spring hike close to Prague. We did 21 km total but that was only because we did a lot of detours. Map: http://mapy.cz/s/6Phd

Trains to Český Brod leave very often (app. every half an hour) from Prague Masarykovo nádraží. If you have Opencard (public transport pass), buy a ticket from the last station in Prague. They are now renovating surroundings of Č. B. station so go to the centre until you reach the red mark. You can stop for some sightseeing (Wikipedia: St. Gothard's Church (baroque church), Gothic bell tower, middle age town wall, neorenaissance town hall, Prokop Veliký monument, renaissance Trinity Church) and also for sweet breakfast (I didn't try personally but it's supposed to be very good - Cukrárna M+Z Kašovi,
nám. Arnošta z Pardubic 39, Mon 10-17, Tue-Fri 8-12.15+13-17, Sat 8-11.30, Sun 11-16). Also there is an outdoor fitness in local parc to burn the calories after and warm up muscles!

(Extra - I also didn't try - but there are some historical underground cellars in "Městské kulturní a informační centrum" (cultural and info centre, + library) at the main square no. 1).

Follow red trail till Tuchoraz with medieval fortress. Unfortunately it is closed for public so you can only see photos to find out how it looks inside: http://hrady.rajce.idnes.cz/Tuchoraz

Now you can change to blue trail (later also to yellow) but we stayed on red until we reached the crossroads and changed to yellow to see the castle Šember ruins - there are none. But it's a nice place:) We went a bit back down the hill and changed to green, heading directly to Sv. Martin church. It is more beautiful though to just stay on red and walk through the river Šembera valley, you reach the church anyway. It is an interesting one to see, built in the end of 12th century. Unfortunately opened only every 4th Sunday in month (11.30) for mass. 

We continued to Kozojedy wanting to take a shortcut to Kostelec but that was really busy road  so I really don't recommend that - instead take the smaller road to the north (http://mapy.cz/s/6Phw) and then red trail again.

In Kostelec nad Černými lesy, you can just take bus to Prague (quite often from the main squary, going to Háje metro). Or go to the brewery pub - although they don't brew (yet) they offer very good special beers, very nice room with collection of first republic beer boards and pretty good food. The service was worse but that is I'm afraid standard in this country:( There is a beer museum, too, now open every Sat. from 3 pm or you can arrange special tour. Website mostly in Czech... http://www.pivovarkostelec.cz/en

There is a beautiful rennaisance chateau, closed to public, but sometimes you can go to courtyard at least.

There is a museum of pottery (I didn't visit) - open Thu-Sat 10-12 + 13-17

Or, take a walk in beautiful vast forest parc which was used by Soviet Red Army as sanatorium (place for healing lung diseases; there are some abandoned buildings too - unaccessible). You can find the entrance on right side of Kutnohorská road at N 49° 59.390 E 014° 51.858.

For geocachers, there is a 100 caches serie "TFTC" with some quite challenging ones - check the favorite points to select the better caches.   

Northwest from Brno and Brněnská přehrada (dam)

Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic and writing about it or what to do there would just take too much time, space and after all, everybody is interested in something else. Besides, it wouldn't be much about hiking. Anyway it's definitely worth visiting, and there are great places to go hiking around!

Wiki provides a lot of information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brno

Official website in English: http://www2.brno.cz/index.php?lan=en&nav01=20608&nav02=20617

In an extremely hot June day 2012, I decided to walk to Brněnská přehrada instead of taking public transport as everyone else. Only one brave friend accompanied me! (Thanks, Tusi:). We started at the bus+tram station Pisárky (but looking at the map now it would been better and more interesting to start already in the southwest from the centre (bus+tram station Nemocnice Milosrdných bratří) where the green trail starts). Even like that, my GPS claims we did 19 km total. Check map at http://mapy.cz/s/6KOW

From Pisárky, take the blue trail up. It's a pleasant walk, opening some nice views. The trail leads you to game park (preserve) Holedná so if you're lucky, you can see some mouflons and fallow deers. There is a whole circle educational trail going around the parc (NS Holedná). At Vrbovec crossroads, turn right, taking first green trail and soon after yellow leading to Bystrc. There you can visit a ZOO. Besides you can visit "Pivo & Beer", beershop with many specials (Vondrákova 2a, Mo-Fr 11-18, Sat 9-13). Eventually the yellow takes you to huge Brněnská přehrada (dam) which is a perfect place to spend a summer day! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brno_Reservoir

Tip for something I didn't make but I plan for this year - a boat trip! There are supposed to be full information in English but most of it was missing when I visited the page http://www.dpmb.cz/Default.aspx?seo=water-reservoir. Anyway, the boats are going 13. 4. - 13. 10. You can check time of departures here http://www.dpmb.cz/Default.aspx?seo=odjezdy-lodi (left column, first boat is 10.45) as well as list of stations (right column) - you can go to a beautiful castle Veveří (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veve%C5%99%C3%AD_Castle) or to the final station Veverská Bitýška (70 min, 150 Kč adult one-way, 240 Kč return) and hike back (about 12 km taking the red trail - see map at http://mapy.cz/s/6KON). 

To get back to the centre, take bus or tram from station Přístaviště.